During the 1820s, the building complex became a focal point for an ambitious and contentious modernization campaign led by Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II. However, the historic landmark in Istanbul faced a cruel fate when the Rami barracks discontinued their military operations in the 1960s.
Despite being officially recognized as a state-backed “cultural property” in 1972, the building complex in the Eyup district endured various uses such as a car park, football pitch, and even a food warehouse during the 1980s. However, after an extensive eight-year restoration project, the building has found a more fitting purpose.
In January, the 18th-century structure officially opened as Istanbul’s largest library, now known as the Rami Library. This revitalized complex is home to an impressive collection of seven million books and documents, including rare manuscripts and special collections.
Within its walls, visitors can find a seating space accommodating 4,200 people, along with 36,000 square meters of bookshelves, restoration rooms for ancient manuscripts, interview halls, a cafe, a bookstore, and a small museum. The long corridors of the library are adorned with artwork that draws inspiration from Turkey’s rich past as well as contemporary artists.
With the objective of appealing to both researchers and the wider public, the institution has gone the extra mile by setting aside a sprawling 51,000-square-meter garden for communal enjoyment.
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Historic Transformations
As one of Istanbul’s latest landmarks, the library not only assumes its present-day role but also holds remarkable historical significance due to its site and building. The complex’s roots can be traced back to the 18th century, when the barracks were built upon the command of Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II.
By 1826, the Turkish ruler had undertaken a momentous task of abolishing the increasingly turbulent Janissary corps and establishing a modern standing army in its place. The construction of the barracks was a part of this ambitious modernization endeavor, with Ottoman officials aspiring to transform the Empire into an effective force against European powers. Shortly thereafter, in 1828, the new military administration faced its first trial during the Turkish-Russian War.
Modernizing The Country
This conflict stood out as the sultan himself declared his role as the commander of the Ottoman forces, becoming the first monarch in over a century to do so. In a grand ceremony, the Ottoman sancak (banner) was raised at the barracks, and the sultan took up residence there, overseeing his armies from afar for two years. It essentially served as the 19th-century Ottoman equivalent of a command center.
However, Mahmud’s ambitions extended beyond defeating the Russians. The Turkish sultan initiated a daring campaign to modernize the country, aspiring to rival Europe in its endeavors.. Many of these reforms were of cultural nature, including a royal decree mandating the adoption of trousers and the fez instead of traditional robes and turbans. Despite objections from the elites, Mahmud remained firm, exempting only the ulama from adopting the Western-style clothing.
Mahmud II’s Reforms
Nevertheless, the Ottoman religious elite found various aspects of the reforms concerning. Mahmud’s decision to display his portrait on the walls of the barracks violated a longstanding taboo on depicting human images, which troubled Muslim scholars. There was also unease surrounding other Western practices, such as the introduction of European music and the hosting of ballroom dances. Cadets enrolled in the military school within the barracks received a Western education as well.
Yuksel Celik, a professor at Marmara University and author of a book on Mahmud’s reforms, refers to the structure as “the headquarters of despotic modernization.” According to Celik’s explanation, for a span of 617 days, Mahmud II utilized the Rami Barracks as his administrative and military headquarters, taking advantage of the wartime circumstances to successfully implement his reforms with minimal resistance.
The academic further elucidates that the sultan hoped that modernizing the army would naturally lead to reforms in other domains, such as the judiciary and state bureaucracy.
French Occupation of the Barracks
Following the death of the sultan, the Rami barracks continued to serve as the headquarters of the modern Ottoman army, except for a brief but significant period after the First World War.
In 1918, during the allied occupation of Istanbul, French troops took control of the barracks. Their commanders added insult to injury by placing a large cross on one of the minarets of the mosque within the compound. This provocative act stirred anger among both the Turkish and Algerian soldiers serving in the French army. The two groups appeared to collude in seeking revenge against the occupiers.
During a Friday prayer ceremony at Eyup Mosque, where Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, one of the closest companions of Prophet Muhammad, is buried, a local preacher named Kemal Efendi approached the Algerian troops. He implored them not to cooperate with the French occupation, appealing to their religious sensitivities. The Turks hoped that by appealing to the Algerians’ faith, they could garner support in their efforts to expel the occupying forces.
After Regaining Control of Istanbul
The exact sequence of events remains unclear to this day, but a series of explosions occurred at the site, providing an opportunity for members of the Turkish resistance to smuggle ammunition out of the buildings. The arms were then transported to ships waiting to transport them to Anatolia, where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was leading a successful campaign to liberate the Turkish mainland from foreign occupiers.
When the Turkish Army regained control of Istanbul in 1923, one of the first actions taken by the troops was to remove the cross from the mosque, as recounted by Nur Bilge Criss in her book, “Istanbul Under Allied Occupation, 1918-1923.” While the stories associated with the Rami barracks are well-known in Turkey, the building itself is only now reemerging in the public consciousness, albeit in a new form disconnected from its military past.
When we look today, Istanbul residents can enjoy the facilities offered by the Rami Library around the clock, seven days a week, with many remaining blissfully unaware of the intrigues that once unfolded within its walls.